Parts & Accessories On eBay
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![]() 2012 Cycling Mountain Bicycle Bike Handlebar Bar End Grip US $.99
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![]() Shimano XTR Brake Lever Set M950 Vintage Nice Condition US $59.00
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![]() KONA MTB Stem 254 US $7.00
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![]() Risse Genesis Rear Shock US $35.00
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![]() Shimano Deore XT SL M740 8 Speed Shifter 8speed US $77.00
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Mtb Brake Cable Constantly Getting Loose?
I have a Shimano ST-EF50 lever, disc brakes with the brand 'Chosen'(??) and i recently switched my brake standard cable to Teflon coated cables. It feels like its constant getting loose. I don't like to squeeze the lever all the way to the grips, but it gets closer all the time. Whats wrong? Is the cable stretching? (both the standard and Teflon cables were still new) Is there something wrong with my setup/system?
I assume that you replaced cables AND housing. If not, replace the housing with compressionless type.
Your main problem, however, is the brake calipers and the reason that you should never buy a low end bike ESPECIALLY if equipped with disc brakes.
To understand this I'll explain in general terms how a mechanical disc caliper works then explain what is going on with yours.
There are 2 brake pads in calipers. One is generally fixed (better ones are "floating", but not yours) and another one is movable on what could best be described as a ramp. The caliper body has an opposing ramp on which the movable pad moves. Squeeze the lever, the cable pulls the arm which rotates the ramp, closing the distance between disc and pad and eventualy making contact to stop the bike. Got it? Good.
On your calipers, the body is made of metal and the movable ramp is on plastic (or visa versa). Every time you squeeze the lever, the metal forces the plastic out of shape and compresses it. On extended use, say, 100 pulls of the lever or so, the plastic compresses and wears away which means the pad doesn't quite reach the disc with the same amount of force. This requires a readjustment of the cable to bring the pad back into range which in turn causes more wear to the plastic, ad nauseum, until the brake is trashed.
In the early days of mechanical discs Promax had a problem that they keyed the plastic actuating arm and fitted it to a hardened metal bolt. This setup failed almost immediately, but Promax finally got it (more or less) correct.
So, to repair your bike I strongly suggest that you get rid of the Chosen calipers and get something at LEAST of the Promax level, but Avid mechanicals would be my preference.
Formula R1 mountain bike disc brake at twohubs.com
Parts & Accessories @ Amazon
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February 20th, 2008
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US $.99






















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